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| Photos of problem tiles in basement floor, and advice? | Login/Join |
| (self-titled) semi-posting lurker Minor Deity  |
Ok, so we're still thinking about the best approach for the basement room/tiles... I don't want to pry any up, so the guy at Lowes said he doesn't recommend tile adhesive because it will be hard to get it where it needs to go. He recommended a spray adhesive, maybe something by 3m, does anyone have any experience with or advice about that? Also, looking at the room again, I now think maybe if we can get the tiles under control, the floorers will pour a leveler and we can go back to the original idea of vinyl planks. But, if we do that, we have to figure out what to do about the doors (two interior, one exterior) because they won't clear much more than an extra half inch, if that, of added height.... Anyway, here are the photos. The ones where there's not a chip missing are ones where you can poke on the tile of the tile and it moves up and down. Oh and Steve, these are 9x9.                  
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Has Achieved Nirvana |
Don’t bother having those tested. They are vinyl-asbestos tiles. 3M spray adhesive will work fine, but if you are pouring leveling underlay there is no reason to mess with the loose ones. Just take them up.
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| (self-titled) semi-posting lurker Minor Deity |
Steve, yes I am not going to have these tested. They check off all the boxes for asbestos! Re pulling the tiles up, that scares me. The tiles that are loose are loose only in one side and it seems like you’d have to stick something like a spackling knife under them and scrape and chip away at the old adhesive and pry them up. Seems like that would stir up a lot of dust, which is what I’m hoping we can avoid. And from what I’ve read about asbestos is you’d need to seal up the room, the vents etc. if you were going to do that. What do you think?
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Has Achieved Nirvana |
SK, there seems to be a door (to the outside?) to the right of the workbench area. The door casing on the right side at the bottom looks like it might have some deterioration due to moisture. I'm not sure, but that looks like an exterior door? You might want to check to see if the casing is soft there. Doesn't look like you've got major water in that space, but if the casing is getting damp you might want to figure out why, especially if you were to go with a carpet option. Also, don't worry too much about door heights. The doors can easily be trimmed to accommodate a new floor, within reason of course. Pop the hinge pin out, take the door off, and a circular saw will do the trick. If you have the floor installed, the installers will do it for you. FYI, the quarter round/base shoe normally gets removed and replaced with new when a new floor is installed. Or just removed when carpeting is installed. That piece covers up any gap between flooring and the base trim; it's not needed when you have carpeting, because that can get installed right up to the base.
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| (self-titled) semi-posting lurker Minor Deity |
WTG, re the water, yes, we know there was water damage there, prior to the owners who we bought from, apparently because of a problem with gutters, the water damage is actually on the walk-out side. The sellers we bought from said there hadn't been water damage for probably 10 years, and I believe them. You can tell in the opposite side of the room (the actual underground part) by looking at the tiles, baseboards and quarter rounds that it's in much better shape. Anyway, so 1) we're not worried about water now, and it's not damp at all, but 2) if there was water there once, it could happen again, hence my decision to choose flooring that's water proof/resistant. Re the door, yes, that is an outside door, and we need to look at it but we might just want to replace it eventually. I will ask the floorers if they do that kind of door trimming.
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| Has Achieved Nirvana |
As I said, trimming can be done within reason, and that applies more to interior doors. Exterior doors are a bit different and tend to be less of a problem when it comes to floor heights. There's usually a raised threshold, so the door is naturally higher off the floor. Does that exterior door have a sweep/does it seal well at the threshold and around the frame? Those old doors can get pretty leaky (air) if previous owners didn't keep up with basic maintenance like replacing worn gasketing and sweeps. Those are DIY projects that can yield some very good benefits short of replacing the whole door.
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| (self-titled) semi-posting lurker Minor Deity |
I need to go look at it again, but it seems pretty well sealed. And when I was down there yesterday, I remember thinking that there wasn't much clearance under that door, but I need to try to measure it, and also look closely at the threshold etc.
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| Shut up and play your guitar! Minor Deity  |
The paranoia surrounding these tiles is ridiculous. As long as you do not "powder-ize" them they are not dangerous. Pry then up, and dispose of them as regular trash. I would pull all of them. Wear a respirator and seal the doorways with plastic if it will make you feel better. We pulled up over 1500sqft of these tiles and never had any of them powder-ize. We used razor scrapers, hand size (4" blade) and long handle versions that permitted standing and even a "slam scraper". | |||
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| (self-titled) semi-posting lurker Minor Deity |
 Yikes, how long did that take?? This room is only 224 sq. feet. Maybe you're right and we should pull them all up. The guy we talked to at Lowes yesterday said that's what he would do. And the argument in favor of taking them all up is, then we never have to worry about it again, and we can say it's taken care of if we need to sell the house at some point. Hmmm....
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| Has Achieved Nirvana |
If you decide to do that you need to find out where it is legal to dump them. Some states have very strict laws.
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| Has Achieved Nirvana |
I understand where mark is coming from; Steve raises an important point also. Besides the disposal issue, I'm guessing that without an abatement certificate, you wouldn't have "officially" gotten rid of the asbestos if you do it yourself. Have to admit I'd be hiring someone to get rid of it professionally and with the appropriate certification. Or if you want to save money, just go over it.
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| (self-titled) semi-posting lurker Minor Deity |
Aw jeez, I didn't even think of that. I am certain you're right! I did already have on my radar asking about rules about disposal etc. but this detail hadn't occurred to me.
Yeah, really, that's what would be ideal. It's just that I think it would probably cost between $2500-3000, if not more, and that would just be for the removal itself, no flooring etc. So it does seem awfully prohibitive. But, another idea is to get a super cheap piece of carpet, lay it out just to cover the whole floor (literally wall to wall, cut out around the built-ins etc., no adhesive, no pad) and wait 1-2 years and then do it properly, professional removal and nice flooring.
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| Has Achieved Nirvana |
Or carpet tiles. Some look just like regular carpet, are DIY, and damaged/dirty areas can be removed and replaced with new tiles if you buy some extra when you install. I think Steve posted about those not long ago...
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| (self-titled) semi-posting lurker Minor Deity |
I looked into carpet tiles, and unless I'm missing something, carpet tiles are not a good option because they require adhesive of some sort, and I do not want to use any adhesive because I don't want to have to worry about the old tiles coming up when we try to take up the carpet. And the carpet tiles made by some place like Modutile or Greatmats are probably too nice for a 1-2 year temporary usage. Aren't your carpet tiles (the photo you posted, the pretty gray ones) interlocking tiles? I think those don't need adhesive, but they're also not cheap IIRC. And btw I did google around trying to find clearance/close out, sale items but didn't find anything that we would want to use.
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| Has Achieved Nirvana |
There are carpet tiles that don't require adhesive; I think the backs are ever so slightly tacky and don't slip. I think Mohawk may make some, and here are a few versions that the big box stores carry: https://www.menards.com/main/f...0348986473971&ipos=4 https://www.homedepot.com/p/In...DM16-2000K/205581947 There are peel and stick varieties, too. Yes, our interlocking tiles have a carpet insert. Very limited color choices (like one or two).
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well-temperedforum.groupee.net The Well-Tempered Forum Off Key Photos of problem tiles in basement floor, and advice?