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| (self-titled) semi-posting lurker Minor Deity  |
We are replacing all the smoke detectors in the new house (yay, fun!) We will have one connected to the home security system (so that when it goes off, the monitoring system gets notified). But then the others will just be whatever we get, one in each bedroom, hallways, etc. The current ones are all hard-wired with battery backup. I’ve been googling around to decide whether to stick with that or switch to all battery/wireless. Another option is to get the kind that “talk to each other.” Does anyone have any experience recently with re-installing smoke detectors? Any thoughts about the pros and cons of the various options? TIA!
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Beatification Candidate |
I would stick with the hardwired, battery back-up detectors as the most reliable choice. I think you have at least some gas appliances (water heater, furnace, etc.) so combination smoke/carbon monoxide are the wise choice. My detectors talk to each other and I think that is an excellent feature, particularly in a multistory house where you may be slow to hear a detector sounding off two floors above or below you. Ionization smoke detectors are often faster to respond to various fires than the photocell type, which rely on the opacity of smoke to respond to fires. Big Al
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| (self-titled) semi-posting lurker Minor Deity |
Thanks Big Al, this is super helpful! Do you think swapping out the hard-wired ones is a DIY job, or do we need to hire an electrician?
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Has Achieved Nirvana |
Mike, our now-retired handyman, was grousing about one of the "talk to each other" systems. Am guessing they were wireless and battery powered, but don't quote me on that. It was some time ago, I don't recall the details, and could be the design flaw was fixed. Something about if one of them went south (like a battery failure?), then the rest of them stopped working, too. What brand is the monitored system that's currently installed?
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| (self-titled) semi-posting lurker Minor Deity |
grousing = complaining, right? The current system in the new house isn't monitored. We have a home security system and it has a smoke detector that you hook up to the monitoring system. That detector is 5 years old, so I may hook that one up and get a new one. Separate from that, I will install regular detectors to replace the ones throughout the house.
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| (self-titled) semi-posting lurker Minor Deity |
P.S. has anyone read about electrical fire protection? https://www.nytimes.com/wirecu...e-protection-device/
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| Beatification Candidate |
If you have experience working with other 120 volt circuits, for example in changing a light switch for a dimmer or replacing a receptacle, you should be OK. Just turn the power off on the detector circuit while you open things up. You may find that the detector has a fixed base connecting plug that will make installation very easy if it's compatible with the new detector. You might want to explore this before selecting your new detectors. I'm also curious as to why you are replacing them now. Are the old detectors beyond their expiration date, don't have all the features you desire, or some other reason? Big Al
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| Beatification Candidate |
I've never seen that device before. If it works as described, it could be useful although I can't see how it can localize a fault. In recent editions, the National Electrical Code has required arc fault circuit breakers for certain circuits in houses. You might want to look at your panelboard to see if you have any such breakers. They detect arcing faults on the circuits they feed and trip to isolate the fault. They do not respond to upstream faults like the one described in the article you posted. My parents-in-law had a loose connection of the neutral wire in their main panelboard. When they phoned to relate what was happening, I told them to turn off everything in the house they could turn off and get an electrician there to diagnose the problem. If you ever notice things getting very bright or dim, you could have a similar problem and need to get it examined post haste. Big Al
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| (self-titled) semi-posting lurker Minor Deity |
Nope, we do not have any experience like that.
We pulled one away from the wall and could see the wires... Maybe we need to call an electrician.
Because the one I looked at was dated 2012. 
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| (self-titled) semi-posting lurker Minor Deity |
I'd like to see if it's written up in any other news outlets, and also whether my insurance provider offers them for free.
This is very good advice!
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Has Achieved Nirvana |
In Massachusetts, the linked detectors were code in 2017, when I sold my house. You had to upgrade to sell. I don’t know about NY or other places. | |||
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| Has Achieved Nirvana |
State Farm is providing Ting to policyholders in some states: https://newsroom.statefarm.com...-to-2-million-homes/ A bit more on how Ting works: https://newsroom.statefarm.com...n-free-ting-sensors/
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| Has Achieved Nirvana |
Available in Illinois and we have State Farm, so we signed up. https://www.statefarm.com/insu...rty/ting-fire-safety
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| Foregoing Practicing to Post Minor Deity  |
We’ve always had battery models. It’s a very old house; we’re not going to run new wiring everywhere. Former system had units that talk to each other. They eventually started beeping erratically and it was time for them to go. That type emits some tiny amount of radiation (americium?) New ones operate as individuals. But these new models are supposed to have a long battery life. Advertised as 10 years, but I’m skeptical. At least they work. We got First Alert because the new alarms can screw into the old bases. Yeah, we’re lazy. 
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| Beatification Candidate |
There only seem to be a couple of insurers who are providing the Ting device to their policyholders. I'm going to call my insurance underwriter to see what they know about this and decide if I want to pay $99 to sign up if they don't offer a free device. The descriptions are a bit vague. I am imagining that it can recognize the electronic signature of an arcing fault somewhere on the system, but it will require the services of an electrician to localize the actual fault location. Another protective system that might be considered is water leak protection. It comes is a variety of flavors including number of monitoring points, alarm handling, and (for a handful of systems) the ability to shut the wter supply off. My younger son had a massive water leak at his home while they were away on vacation. It did thousands of dollars of damage and was blamed on a toilet feed line that ruptured, apparently due to overpressure caused by a failed pressure reducing valve on the public water supply to the house. An alternative that doesn't cost anything is to shut off the main supply when leaving the house for any extended time, but this won't prevent more immediate damage in the vicintiy of a siazable leak that goes undetected for anhy amount of time. Big Al
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